Methods and madness

Often when cooking in the kitchen I find myself returning to the other kitchen or to my home to try things a second time.  In other cases there are things I’ve wanted to do for months but it took some time for those tomatoes to grow and ripen in the garden before I could make homemade ketchup.  Although experimenting can be fun and exciting many times in the heat of exploration I end up with product that has no deliberate use.  Equally troubling sometimes  the yield is also so low that there isn’t really anything one can make from 4 oz. of fromage blanc to put on a menu for one nights service.

So what does one do with freshly made fromage blanc in such a small portion.  Flavor is exciting, thinking of the many permutations that could be this dish this one night stand can be confusing.  Savory or Sweet?  Honeydew? Tomato?  Crepes?  There always comes a list eventually:

honeydew, essence of rosemary, lemon, ginger garnished with mint or lemon thyme or lemon verbena

The idea is swell but execution is still key and how does one incorporate these ingredients, what techniques do we utilize.  I could make a soup out of the honeydew flavor it with ginger blend the fromage with the lemon thyme or I could make Ginger honeydew parfait with a rosemary caramel, lemony fromage, and mint.  To help end the confusion there is always the other list, the list of preparations, procedures and techniques.  I stole mine fair and square from Michael Laiskonis and its awesome.  If I find myself in a rut I do like to explore the internet see what other people are doing in an attempt to stay fresh, but when I have an idea and I don’t know what to do with it I head to the list.  Of course some of these processes are out of my realm due to a lack of equipment, but it doesn’t mean I can’t explore with the thought, take notes and make an attempt to execute the dish how I see it best in my head.

Stepping into the unknown is something that I have grown rather familiar with these days working two kitchens one Italian and one French.  There are many obstacles to overcome having never been properly schooled in the culinary arts.  In my experience taking time to make discoveries can be as important as asking questions, digging through books and taking notes.  Although explanations and words often escape me while attempting to keep up with mise en place and the tempo of service.   The test kitchen of home and and the hard days put in for the easier ones where I can explore ideas are most necessary in my education, and it never hurts to pick up a book now and then.   We are life-long learners as some people say “you learn something new everyday” and I look forward to tomorrow.

keep your knives in check

kevins stoneEvery once and a while I tend to notice the hard way that I haven’t sharpened my blade in a awhile.  This usually occurs when the knife slips or bounces off of something soft like a tomato or rolls off of something hard like a potato.   Insert Kevin’s stone which through thorough use and abuse has become bowed and gummy, thus mostly useless unless you need a paper weight or have plans for a double murder.  With persistence, love, and some WD-40 all is not lost.  The Wd-40 acts as a solvent without drying out the stone so it will remove all that gummy tar build up from oil and ground steel adhering itself to the stone over the course of many uses.   Taking the time to clean and maintain your equipment properly can extend its life and keep you and your hands out of danger.  In addition to maintaining and cleaning your equipment take some time consider your dirty coats, nails, and shoes and maintain.

Some handy work by good ole Roger Thomas

 

scallopsScallops seared, braised fennel, fennel frond, anisette and orange juice reduction from Piatto wine dinner 8.22.9

Halibut Tamale

corn husk halibut

This past week we receive some incredible sweet corn from southern Ohio, when Sunday came around we decided to do something interesting with the halibut we received a day earlier.  The first idea was to use the sweet corn to make a simple relish and creamed corn sauce to make a deconstructed corn chowder to accompany the halibut.  As I watched Kevin our sous remove the husks and throw them away I suggested we make some sort of tamale for first course in which he replied lets wrap the fish.  So he wrapped the Halibut but not before seasoning it with some paprika, chili powder, salt, and pepper, grilled it to char the husks and then baked it to finish.  The end product was cord husk wrapped halibut, smashed potatoes, corn relish, and creamed corn sauce finished with a touch of olive oil and parsley.

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Infusions

Recently I took some time to create several infuse vodkas.  Each turned out rather well or at least interesting with room to improve and one yet done and tasted.  Its fun to play with flavor pairings especially when considering how the drink will come together whence the infusion is completed.  We tried sage-raspberry which went well with pomegranate juice or soda, Izze makes a soda that I’m fond of and it worked out pretty well.

Raspberries

Raspberries

Second was an orangecello which after adding 8oz of simple syrup went down a little too easily.  Following that we put together raw cocoa nibs with mint which created a rich dark chocolate aroma and bitter flavor with a metholated after taste.  Mixed with cream, half and half, or soy milk over ice with a sprig of lemon thyme it worked out pretty nicely.  The last most recent bottle was infused with horseradish and peppercorns which I gained the inspiration from Absolut Peppar, an article I read about the Greehouse Tavern’s raw oyster and horseradish dish, and my dad.  Thinking we can make some awesome bloody mary’s I’m waiting to see what this one tastes like in a couple of days when I think it will have reached its peak.

Horse radish peppercorn vodka

Horse radish peppercorn vodka

Sable and Grouper

Tonight Ed put together the specials, I plated and cook the Sable he took care of the Grouper.

Sable

Sable

Sable, Corn Salsa, Balsamic reduction, Olive Oil

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Grouper

Grouper

Grouper, grilled tomatoes, roasted cauliflower, scallion oil

Striped Bass

Today at work we received Tuna, Striped Bass, and mussels which meant we needed to come up with new specials for the daily menu.  About twice a week we receive fresh fish which we use to create new specials every other day if not daily.  This leads to a lot of experimentation and sometimes frustration with about two hours given daily to create these specials while managing other tasks so that one is ready for service off of the regular dinner menu.   The from my station today was grilled striped bass, grilled Belgium endive, scallion aioli, citrus  oil, basil, scallion, parsleyP7100166

Grilled endive

Striped bass

I’m afraid the grilled flavors may have been a bit overdone but the endive worked well with the aioli and the citrus oil.  As for the mussels I took fennel bulbs, onions, and red peppers sweated them until they began to brown added white wine, bay leaves, whole coriander, and cracked black pepper reduce to half then added water.  Ed our saute cleaned the mussels and cooked them in the broth just until they opened.

As for the Tuna not until tomorrow Ed ran out halibut, olive tapenade, garlicky sauteed spinach.

Halibut

Halibut

Raw cake revisited

Every year for the past two now my girlfriend and I have made each other raw birthday cakes.  In the spirit of eating healthy you must know she is a vegan and I’m a vegetarian, so this isn’t far from our realm of dietary wants and needs in fact its special and over the top in  a way.  So previously we made cakes with bananas, date, nuts, coconut products and various other components to make a cake like dessert that was more like cake batter that stood up.  This year I took a different more direct approach, I made a “cake” from watermelon, sprite melon, apricots, banana and strawberry puree, walnuts, basil and mint.  I think we were both pretty stoked with the result, she deemed it the “smoothie cake.”

Raw Cake

More thoughts on raw foods and specialized diets another day.

Fresh out the gate

Matcha Cake, lemon lime parfait, basil fluid gel

Here I come taking (or borrowing) ideas mashing them up and making something tasty.   This is a combination of recipes found on Michael Laikonis’ blog and in Johnny Iuzzini’s book Dessert Fourplay.  It ran for several days at the Piatto and did alright.  I think the reading “Matcha Cake, lemon lime parfait, basil fluid gel” scares some folks in the midwest, but the basil and the citrus compimented each other well.  I also enjoyed the texture of the cake and the parfait which reminded me or flinstone’s puch pops.

rethink, rethink, rethought

Its been a battle deciding what to do with this free space over the past several years.  I think a big part of that was I didn’t really know what I was doing and its not that I do now, but things have changed again.  Now I cook.  Its a job that I enjoy and I’m grateful for, so I think thats what I’m going to do with this for a while pictures, recipes (maybe), thoughts.  Although I’m sure I’ll sneek some other topics I believe this will be my new focus.  Thanks for your undivided attention and patience.